About Coriander (Coriandrum sativum)
Coriander is, in a sense, two flavoring plants. One, used for its leaf, is commonly known
as cilantro, and has in recent years become commonplace if not indeed famous; we (or
at least one of us), like many, many others past and present, think it repugnant. (Its very
name is from a Greek word for "bug" and is commonly associated with bedbugs, whose smell is
reputed to closely resemble cilantro--or, more to the point, vice versa; "fetid" and "soapy"
are other words commonly used for its smell and taste).
(Apparently there is some belief--how scientific, or at accurate at all, we have no
idea--that there is a genetic element in one's liking for or disliking of cilantro; it is
certainly true that there are some people who cannot at all detect certain smells that
others can, so it's not an impossible idea, and would explain the stupendous gap between
those who adore the stuff and those who can scarcely find words for their detestation.)
But, used for its "seed" (not truly seed but actually the fruit of the plant), and known as
"coriander seed", it is a very different thing. The quite aromatic "seed" has a taste often
described as sweet and vaguely orange-ish. It is an essential ingredient of virtually all
curry powders, and is widely used in the cuisines of the Middle East; any good cook will
find numerous uses for it.
Cultivars
For all that drastic difference between the leaf use and the "seed" use, the plant is the
same thing: only the parts used vary. Still, today, with the sudden popularity of
cilantro (owing, no doubt, to its heavy use in certain ethnic cuisines now developing
followings in mainstream America), varieties have been developed especially to be
"slow-bolting", for the notorious habit of coriander of easily bolting to seed, handy for
those who want it for its "seed", is a big drawback to those who want cilantro.
Because we want it for its "seed", we need to look out for varieties that are not
labelled as "slow bolting" or, better yet, that are identified as "for seed". There seem to
be at least two main types--the large-seeded Indian and the smaller-seeded European--but no
seed catalogues we have seen carry cultivars by name. The best one can do is to avoid any
type labelled "slow-bolting".
Planting
Timing
The plant can take up to 4 months from seeding to harvest, and likes warm growing weather.
The usual broad planting advice is "spring" or "ealy spring"; in Saskatchewan, the advice is
"mid-April to mid-May", while in Britain it is April. Around here, May 1st looks like a
good time, as growth will run through August, capturing our warmest months (coriander can
withstand light frosts, which we can get into early June). Warmth is a problem for
cilantro growers, because it pushes the plant into bolting, but when we grow for seed, that
is just what we want.
The Bed
The general rule for herb and spice plants is that their soil needs are not demanding, save
that the soil must be very well-drained: few herb or spice plants can stand "wet feet".
The soil should not be particularly rich, most especially not for flavoring plants we
grow for their seed (or fruit), common mis-advice to the contrary notwithstanding: a rich
soil will lower the concentration of the "aromatic oils" that give the seed its
characteristic flavor, which is the very thing we are growing them for. Plants that are
slightly nutrient-stressed (which doesn't mean starved) give better-tasting seed.
Coriander is typical of the remarks above, save that when grown for its "seed" it actually
seems to benefit from a little shade (as, for example, behind taller plants). Also, because
it does not compete well with weeds (especially perennial weeds) be sure to plant it in a
well-cleared bed.
Planting Out
Gently crack the "seeds" before planting--putting them in a small plastic bag and
gently applying a rolling pin should crack open the husks. The "seed" of coriander
is not true seed but a fruit, each fruit having two embryos inside; you can plant each of
the two as a "seed", so reckon on two plants per husk (if you get 100% germination).
Sow the "seeds" about ¼ to ½ inch deep where the plants are to grow (like many
herb and spice plants, coriander does not take well to transplanting). The plants can be
spaced quite close together, say at 4 inches (commercial growers sometimes seed at several
to the inch).
Coriander typically germinates very slowly: it can easily take as long as 3 weeks to emerge,
so don't get frustrated too soon. Just keep it well watered.
Growing
Coriander cannot handle dry soil: as noted above, keep it well watered.
The availability of honey bees as pollinators will usually improve coriander yields.
Coriander "seeds" notoriously ripen unevenly, so you need to keep a close eye on your crop
and harvest plants individually, lest the heads shatter prematurely. Let each plant grow
till its first set of seeds dries enough to crack when pinched (it can take up to 120 days
to produce mature seed, depending in part on cultivar); at that time, cut the plant. Hang
cut plants to dry over a catch-cloth; when they are thoroughly dry, dump them into a holding
bag (which you will later use for threshing them).
When your crop is fully harvested, thresh the lot: beat the holding bag in which you have
collected them against a hard surface to dislodge the seeds. Sift the loose seeds through a
3-inch mesh hardware cloth to remove the chaff. Make absolutely, positively
sure the seeds are thoroughly dried before putting them away for storage (in the
usual manner for dried herbs and spices: an airtight container stored in a dark place,
preferably a cool one).
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