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While this page describes in detail our exact climate, its thrust is to demonstrate that that climate is typical of a rather large portion of North America. (The data shown are in all cases the most recent available.)
We are in eastern Washington State, about 50 to 60 miles west-southwest of Spokane (more precisely, 4 miles south of Ritzville, Washington). The zone map shows us as Zone 6a, but the border line between our zone and Zone 5b lies only a few miles away (when we drive out, we always somehow expect to see some vast, translucent curtain hanging down from the sky, like a Christo art work, along the zone border). Moreover, since we're in a small coulee that amounts to a freeze pocket, making us a few degrees cooler than the immediately surrounding areas, we're effectively a mild Zone 5, though, as you will see, we can nonetheless get pretty hot in the summer.
But, while the USDA zone is helpful information, locales with the same zone number can, as we said before, have drastically different seasonal climate patterns. We need, therefore, to specify considerably more about our climate than the Zone number.
One often sees and hears the phrase "Pacific Northwest" used in a sweeping way for the Oregon-Washington area, but that is an extremely parochial use. Coastal Oregon and Washington, the relatively narrow strip (variously called "the I-5 corridor" or "the rainyside") running between the Pacific Ocean and the western slopes of the Cascade mountains, is a mild-winter, cool-summer, rainy, maritime climate; it is also where the great majority of Washingtonians and Oregonians live (think Seattle and Portland). It is not, however, the majority of the land area of either State. Rural eastern Washington (and Oregon, about which we know less) have very different climates from that of the I-5 corridor, and gardening considerations here are wildly different from those of the "Pacific Northwest" of books.
The Cascades, like all coastal ranges, act as a rain shield against weather blowing in off the ocean. Hence it is very dry to the east of them, in their "rain shadow." Just past their western slopes, rainfall can be as little as 4 inches a year; even where we are, the climate is quite dry. That climate also is not moderated by the proximity of an ocean, and so we have four full, real seasons.
Since we have been here less than a decade, we base our descriptions on the State weather records over the past 59 years (1948 - 2006, inclusive) for the town of Ritzville. The town is but 4 miles north of us, and small; it thus seems likely that its data are a decent indication of conditions at our location. (But of course, global warming is having its effects: we may never again ever see what old timers here consider a "normal" winter.)
(The graphs below are a year behind the tabulated data presented on other pages of this site, but the difference is effectively nil.)
The average overnight low temperature on the coldest day of the year (very early January) is 18 degrees; the average mid-day high temperature on the warmest day of the year is 91 (around the end of July). In those six decades, the coldest-ever low was -24 and the highest-ever high was 112. The chart below shows the situation.
We don't have standard-deviation data, but it seems fair to say that around here lows of zero are cold and highs of 100 are hot. You can, if you like, see an actual day-by-day (of the year) tabulation of our average and extreme temperatures and precipitation (but that's a pretty big file, and may take a bit to load if you have a slow inrternet connection).
Annual rainfall, excluding winter snow, is a hair under 12 inches, with seasonal variations that are not drastic--the graph below shows the data (apparently including snowfall).
"Frost-free" growing days are--as they are everywhere--a complicated subject. Simplistic statements like "Ritzville has about 150 frost-free days, with last frost typically around May 15th and first frost typically around September 15th" are silly, for a number of reasons. One is that some care is needed in defining a "frost": it is not just a day when the air temperature drops below 32°F. We have a separate page on this site showing all frost data; there, you can see that the climate folks use temperatures from about 20° to about 36° when speaking of "frosts". The American meteorological Society says this: "Depending upon the actual values of ambient-air temperature, dewpoint, and the temperature attained by surface objects, frost may occur in a variety of forms. These include a general freeze, hoarfrost (or white frost), and dry freeze (or black frost). If a frost period is sufficiently severe to end the growing season (or delay its beginning), it is commonly referred to as a killing frost." A government publication amplifies that: "Because frost is primarily an event that occurs as the result of radiational cooling, it can occur with standard observing level temperature (at 5 feet above ground) in the mid to upper 30s. Most experts suggest that a 'killing frost' would take place at temperatures lower than 32 degrees Fahrenheit. The range most often cited is between 25 degrees and 28 degrees Fahrenheit." [emphasis added] And, of course, every year brings different dates for the last and first killing frost. The best we think that can be said from the existing data is that the Ritzville frost-free growing period averages--dangerous word!--conservatively 170 days, running from the beginning of may through the middle of October--but see the full frost data for a better understanding of our season. In short, though, we have short but hot summers.
We also experience, at times, substantial wind, generally right out of the west--on occasion, real windstorms. Eventually we will have a substantial windbreak planted, but we are just starting it out and windbreak trees--and even shrubs--take years to fill in decently.
Throughout this region, soil is a deposit over a thick layer of basalt (volcanic rock); the depth of that soil layer determines the usual use of the land. At about 5 or more feet deep, soil is economically usable for wheat, and farmers out here grow wheat kind of like the Japanese grow rice--it seems as if not a usable square inch gets overlooked. Where the soil is less than 5 feet deep, yields for wheat become marginal and such land--sometimes with soil depths of only a few inches--is "pasture land," suitable (to commercial agriculture) only for grazing cattle.
The soil itself is usually pretty good in texture, albeit definitely on the clay side--though land previously used for wheat will have been through many, many of the hideous two-year cycles used in PNW wheat farming: one year of dumping as much poison on the soil as you can afford plus as little artificial fertilizer as you can get by with, then a year of letting the land sit unplanted and uncovered so that as much of the topsoil as possible can get blown away (the micro-particulate air-pollution rate in eastern Washington State is shocking and unhealthy) so that next year you'll need yet more artificial fertilizer, and--as the King Of Siam supposedly used to say--"et cetera, et cetera, et cetera." What was not wheatland tends to be medium-heavy clay in its natural state. The natural pH tends to be rather alkaline; potassium and phosphorus are usually lavishly present, but nitrogen is puny, the soil having been farmed out in the hideous manner just mentioned.
The location we selected for our vegetable garden appears to be about as good as it gets here--that is, it is on the better edge of marginal wheat use. At its best, it's perhaps 3 to 4 feet deep, while at some points it's 2 feet or less. It's also rocky, but we removed the larger stones as we dug the ground. We are also amending the soil with aged steer manure and--after we get some going--we will add compost as well. Back at our last place, the "soil" was mediocre junk of about 12 to 24 inches depth that we had had dumped over some hardpan clay--which, for the uninitiated, is about the equivalent of sidewalk concrete--so we know you can grow good vegetable crops on surprisingly shallow soil if you take some care of it; four or more feet of soil is, for us, Heaven. We even have a few earthworms! (Big deal you say? In twelve years at our last place, we saw nary a one.)
The land here was long ago utterly stripped of trees; none are found today except in proximity to houses as windbreaks. We thus have a clear shot to the south, and for that matter to the east and west, though we will eventually have a treed windbreak to the west about a hundred feet off. The land slopes very gently uphill to the south; the garden proper is essentially level. We have oriented the beds north-south, which should make no real difference to the light available to any particular bed or portion thereof no matter what we grow where, since the summer (and even spring and fall) sun passes from east to south to west.
It's not essential that you know exactly how we have laid out our own garden, but it will to some extent illustrate the points about crop rotation and using deep-dug beds that we discussed in the introduction to this site.
(If the descriptions below start to get confusing, here is a crude plot of the garden layout--and we do mean crude.)
What we have is four parallel rows each comprising two 4' x 16' planter boxes (that is, 8 boxes total, for 512 square feet of planting surface), oriented north-south with a 4-foot-wide walkway between each box in each direction. The house lies about 25 feet to the north of the garden area (actually, the garage north wall does, with the house proper east of the garage).
We also are putting in, to the north of the main beds, some berry plantings (in ground, not in raised beds): two 8x16 foot beds with raspberries, strawberries, blueberries, and a couple of lingonberries. Those will very soon require cages--wood frames high, wide, and deep enough for the berry bushes but faced with chicken wire to suggest to the wee birdies that lunch is best sought elsewhere. It was too warm for good berries where we last were so we don't have personal experience, but we gather that birds can be a disaster to the berry grower. The lingonberries, though native to arctic climates yet accepting of warmth, nonetheless keep dying on us, so we'll pass on them this year and next year we'll instead try a couple in a half-barrel, so we can more exactly control the soil conditions--lingonberries, like blueberries, require drastically acid soil.
We also have two in-ground lettuce beds running east-west just south of the boxes/beds (those beds are collinear beds each of 2 x 14 feet with a 4-foot gap between); we use them in alternate years, to avoid over-drawing the soil. We put a frame over those lettuce bed(s) with: in summer, cloth strips for partial shading; and in winter, clear poly as a cold frame. (We haven't had time yet to implement the winter part, but will soon.) There is more discussion under "Lettuces" in the vegetable selections.
We keep putting in fruit trees and having them die, lately from vole attacks. Our soil is only about three feet deep in the "orchard" area, and that may just be too shallow (most sources say four feet miniumum, but we're working on ideas. (Fruits, both tree and bush, are discussed further on the Fruits and Berries page.)
And we dearly wanted an asparagus bed, the bigger the better. We ended up establishing it, owing to reasons beyond our control (namely pallets of cinder block injudiciously placed where one part of the bed should have gone), as two rows quite a ways apart; we explain all that away by saying it increases the odds that at least one row will be productive, which may even be true as the original site has pretty shallow soil, while the last-minute-add row is in pretty deep soil (for this area). (Though the two seem about equally successful, and have been satisfactorily productive.)
Contiguous with the house proper is what may be called a garage area. We say "may be called" because besides a garage proper, it has some other walled-off rooms. One of these, which we call "the tank room" (you'll see why) is about 16 x 16 x 10 high and has an exposed 6-inch-thick concrete-slab floor. All the walls and the ceiling are heavily insulated (as are two edges of the slab). The tank room has four huge, multi-pane (that is, high energy-gain) windows--essentially the full 16-foot width and seven feet high--facing due south. In front of these, we have put a row of eight 55-gallon drums filled with freeze-protected water and painted flat "barbecue" black. Over top of that 16-foot-wide row of drums, we have placed two-foot-deep plywood, making a 2' x 16' surface on which to place variously sized pots and planters to accommodate things from herbs to tomatoes. (And we have shelves up with fluorescent gro-lites and heating pads as a seedling-starter area.)
The "tank room" is so called because toward the back (north) side is a 2,250-gallon water tank, which acts as a buffer between the well (which, by the way, has quite a raw capacity, about 80 gpm, though we only have it pumped for 5 gpm owing to the tank). The presence of those 2,250 gallons plus the 440 in the drums, for a total of at least 2,700 or so gallons of water in the room, was intended to keep the room (and, of course, all that water) well above freezing even in darkest winter, and it seems to be working well (which is nice because that room is also our wine cellar!): the extreme range, year round, is about low 50s to mid-60s.
(Fans of solar heating will recall that the lowest winter temperatures normally come when skies are quite clear--because that's when the ground radiates infrared energy back up to the sky--and thus with sunlight available for heating, whereas overcast, low-sun days are almost always relatively mild-temperature days because the overcast reflects ground-radiated infrared energy back down.)
Our original intent in designing in the tank room was to use it for a continuing supply of lettuce throughout the winter, with a sideline in those herbs that one prefers fresh and a few cherry and maybe regular tomatoes. We have since become aware that lettuce is so cold-hardy (down to 20 degrees, some say) that we have a fighting chance of growing it year-round if--as described above--we put a poly "tent" over the rows (and maybe put some bricks edgewise in the soil between plants to help hold heat acquired in the daytime). By moving the lettuce outdoors year-round, we acquire enough indoor space to grow some tomatoes, radishes, and mini-carrots for fresh salad use. And, of course, we also now have goodly space for those never-got-enough fresh herbs (we're trying basil, for example, to see if we can keep it warm enough to be happy there through the winter).
(Some of these things can be seen, if poorly, on some photos available on the separate web site Owlcroft House, about our home and homestead.)
If you find this site interesting or useful, please link to it on your site by cutting and pasting this HTML:
The <a href="http://growingtaste.com/"><b>Growing Taste</b></a> Vegetable-Gardening Site
In association with The Book Depository, we offer a library of books on vegetables, including books on growing, specialty cookbooks, plus a few related odds-and-ends books on the topic of vegetables, available for purchase from The Book Depository (never any shipping charges added).
Since you're growing your own vegetables and fruits, shouldn't you be cooking them in the best way possible?
Visit The Induction Site to find out what that best way is!
If you like good-tasing food, perhaps you are interested in good-tasting wines as well?
Visit That Useful Wine Site for advice and recommendations for both novices and experts.
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