About Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium)
Francophiles regard chervil as the foremost of the five so-called fine herbes, but it
has to be fresh to have any material taste at all--the supermarket stuff is utterly
purposeless. It's used much as serious cooks use parsley, but has a more delicate flavor,
with a hint of anise to it (perhaps like a rather mild tarragon).
Cultivars
It is customary to snoot flat-leaf chervils for the curly-leafed types, but most sources,
when push comes to shove, will concede that there is no flavor difference, just eyeball
appeal. (In fact, at least one source prefers flat-leafed, claiming that curly is sometimes
a trifle bitter.)
The variety Brussels Winter is marketed as slower to bolt than most (the plant
ordinarily does not take well to warm seasons), so we'll use that one.
Planting
Chervil grows well in pots: all it needs is moderately rich soil, moisture, good
drainage, and a sunny situation. It is an annual that bolts easily, so it is probably
wise to start a new plant fairly often (chervil matures quickly--in 6 weeks under ideal
conditions).
Scatter a few seeds on the soil surface, leaving them uncovered (or perhaps under a trace
of sifted soil), keep the soil moist, and wait. (If planting outfoors, direct-seed where
you want it, because chervil does not take to being transplanted.)
Note that chervil seed has a life expectancy of a year or so at most: don't try to save
leftovers from season to season.
Growing
Chervil wants to be quite well-watered, and dislikes being hot or even really warm.
Chervil notoriously bolts quickly, especially in the warmer months; keep its leaves
pinched to prevent the small, white flowers from developing (and subsequently forming
seeds).
Do not cook it any more than you have to. In dishes wanting chervil, it is best added at
the last moment, with just enough time to get warm.
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