About Sage (Salvia officinalis)
Sage is a strongly flavored perennial herb. It is today less used than once it was, but is
still one of the more important kitchen flavorings. Its commonest use is with strongly
flavored meats, but even vegetarians will find uses for it.
Cultivars
This is another herb with a horde of differently flavored cultivars: there are probably
between a dozen or so races of just Salvia officinalis, plus many more "quasi-sages"
that are close cousins within the Salvia genus (such as Pineapple Sage or Clary
Sage).
As with rosemary, the many purely floral uses of the plant complicate finding good
information on purely culinary uses. It apears that "Dalmatian sage" (from Yugoslavia,
particularly the Dalmatian coast) is generally considered the best, but that seems likely
to just be another way of specifying "real" sage (S. officialinis) in contrast to
the "near-sages". One university says "The best culinary sages are the plain narrow-leafed
and non-flowering broad-leaved types", which is at best minimally helpful. In fact, it
appears that the best culinary sage is none of the special types, but rather any sound
specimen of "common or garden" S. officialinis, though at least one source says the
race "Albiflora" is the best culinary sage. Another popular race of S.
officialinis is "Berggarten", a smaller, bushy type supposedly especially good in pots.
We've been growing "Holt's Mammoth" outdoors, but will soon be switching to growing
indoors, and probably to Berggarten (S. officialinis "Berggarten").
Planting
Like almost all herbs of Mediterranean origin, sage likes mediocre but slightly alkaline
and very well-drained soil, and lots of sun. It is a perennial, but best replaced every
few years (one source says every 4 years). It can be grown from seed, but normally one
buys it as a plant from a reliable specialist. Sage takes well to indoor growing; given
scope, it can reach a good size, but--as we rarely want much, owing to the intensity of its
flavor--it is as well to restrict it to a smaller pot.
Growing
Sage, once established, is drought-tolerant, but easily falls victim to "wet feet", so keep
it watered regularly but with a light hand; don't let its soil get really damp.
When harvesting, one ordinarily only wants a little at a time, but in any event never take
more than about a quarter of the foliage at one time. Older leaves will be more strongly
flavored, and are best for cooking; younger leaves have a lighter taste, and the
venturesome can use them in salads, omelettes or scrambled eggs, and suchlike dishes.
Plants should be pruned each spring, lest they get "leggy" (some use the phrase "severely
pruned"); remove the top half of each branch, which will encourage new growth from the base
of the plant as well as from the branches. Take care not to cut old wood. The lower
leaves on sages--especially those closest to the ground and inside the plant--often die
during summer; always remove dead leaves as soon as you notice them. Some further light
pruning at other times of the year is probably a good idea too; in general, try to achieve
dense but open foliage that will encourage good air circulation through the leaves.
Sage can be vegetatively propagated with fair ease, and taking and starting cuttings every
couple of years is a good way to keep your sage supply vigorous.
Sage is a strong flavoring, and--as with rosemary--the cook not
well experienced with it is advised to use it with a distinctly light hand till confidence
is gained.
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