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Experts seem to feel that French thyme (Thymus vulgaris) and Lemon Thyme (Thymus x citriodorus) are sufficient for most kitchens. Each species, however, has cultivars.
For plain thyme, while a number of seedsmen, for reasons best known to themselves, identify "English" thyme as the culinary norm, what the cook wants is French thyme (sometimes more fully "Fine Leaf French"). Buy a thyme explicitly described as "French thyme, Thymus vulgaris" from a reputable herb specialist house: that's your best bet. (The vulgaris is sometimes rendered as vulgare.)
(We're not sure if this clarifies or complicates, but while both French and English thymes are often identified as T. vulgaris, many argue that the species name applies only to thymes with a slightly curled leaf, and that the flat-leaved "English thyme" is more accurately identified as a hybrid, Thymus x Broadleaf English, botanically analogous to lemon thyme.)
We're not fully convinced that, beyond "real" thyme, even lemon thyme is necessary--else
why did God make lemons? (Plus the citrusy fragrance disappears with any but the briefest
cooking, or if you try to dry it.) In any event, lemon thyme (Thymus x citriodorus)
comes as a dozen or more cultivars of various color patterns, none of which can be grown
from seed, and one of which, oh so very helpfully, is named "Lime"; if there is any
culinary difference between cultivars, we did not find information on it. But beware
plants labelled "lemon thyme" that lack a distinct citrus smell, for there are many wrongly
labelled types (described by plant color, not culinary quality) about. If buying any
"lemon thyme", do be sure that, whatever the name, it's truly a Thymus x
citriodorus.
Thyme takes well to indoor growing, and can be grown in a rather small and shallow
container, ideally--as with all herbs that don't like wet feet, which is most herbs--an
unglazed terra cotta pot (which can "sweat out" excesss moisture) with a fair bit of gravel
at the bottom. Use a potting mixture that is not peat-based. Thymes need horizontal space
more than they do vertical, so a shallow, wide container is best for them. One expert
recommended putting a thin layer of light gravel on the soil surface to reduce evaporation
in dry weather, to give better drainage in humid situations, and to just look nice; that is
probably good advice with most potted herbs.
Though most herbs give best flavor in less-than-ideal soil, those being grown in pots do need a touch of fertlilization once in a while--say annually. Use a "complete" (that is, with "minor" nutrients included) slow-release type--organic if you prefer; dib a few small holes in the soil maybe a couple of inches deep and add the fertilizer, then fill in the holes.
Plants should be pruned regularly, with spring usually being the best time, though some further light pruning at other times of the year is probably a good idea too; in general, try to achieve dense but open foliage that will encourage good air circulation through the leaves.
Thyme can be vegetatively propagated with fair ease, and taking and starting cuttings every couple of years is a good way to keep your thyme supply vigorous.
Thyme is a strong flavoring, and--as with sage--the cook not well
experienced with it is advised to use it with a distinctly light hand till confidence is
gained.
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