Okra
(Abelmoschus esculentus)
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Cultivars
This very fine (nearly great) vegetable is shamelessly slandered by folk who don't understand its cooking qualities. Yes, okra rapidly goes gooey when cooked with water: but, as they
say in computertalk, that's a feature, not a bug. That mucilagenous quality is prized by those who appreciate its uses in gumbo, wherein it thickens up the soup considerably while adding
good flavor. But the best way to enjoy okra properly--and without any gooeyness--is the old Southern way: coated with cornmeal batter and fried quick and deep. Ummm, ummm, good!
Of all the vegetables on our lists, this out-of-Africa heat-lover is doubtless the most challenging in this climate, even more so than eggplant--but the payoff for success is so high
that we're more than willing to take that gamble. There are some newer hybrids that claim to be good for northern growing, but we'd rather grow nothing than hybrids; fortunately, there
are also open-pollinated types that reportedly grow well in northern climes (the University of Sasketchewan--cold enough?--lists several).
Not commonly stated in the literature (or catalogues) is that okra has daylength-sensitivity that varies with cultivar; most cultivars need a short daylength to initiate flowering,
though there are also long-day and day-neutral cultivars. So "days to maturity" for a cultivar may not sufficiently define its usefulness--it should be explicitly labelled as suitable for
northern growing.
After an extensive search and literature review, we have settled on the cultivar Emerald as our type to trial. Of that type, one experienced grower remarked "one of
the better cultivars for me, it is a prolific producer, plants reach 9 ft by October [this is in Georgia]. Yet it is early enough to began production in July. Taste and texture is
superior. Does not get tough and seedy as quickly as say Clemson Spineless. Only the leaf-footed bug dares attack it". There are other early-okra candidates nearly as well recommended
(Dark Green Long Pod, Perkins Spineless, Burgundy, and Penta Green), but this one is widely available and well-liked.
Planting
Timing
When to plant out is critical in this climate. Avoiding too-cool nights is more of a problem than getting warm days (though both matter). Ideally, okra would like night-time lows of
about 65, but we just don't get temperatures like that. It is said that "Night temperatures should be above 55° F for good growth", and that "Plants will stop growing as soon as the
temperature starts dropping down below 50° F."
Well out here our very highest average nightly low temperature for the year is only 55°: we see that number (again and always, on average) from late July to early
August, a span of perhaps two weeks. Now early okra nominally takes about 50 days from transplant to maturity, but may go a little slower at less than ideal temperatures. If we plant out
around July 1st, we would be putting the plant's mid-term right around the heat peak. Whether that is best, or whether we most need the heat at the beginning of growth, or later, at
pod-set time, is unclear to us, so we're just going to shoot for that July 1st plant-out date. (For comparison, in mid-June, average highs are only in the high 70s, and lows are in the
high 40s, and the same becomes true again by mid-September.) After all, we are growing a somewhat north-adapted variety, so it may work--we'll just have to see.
One apparently wants to start okra seedlings about 4 to 5 weeks prior to anticipated plantout, which means sowing seed around June 1st.
Starting Seedlings
The minimum soil temperature for okra seed germination is about 60° F., but the optimum germination temperature is 95° F. The temperature really makes a difference: at soil
temperatures of about 60°, germination takes 27 days, whereas at about 75°, germination may take only 13 days, and in ideal conditions perhaps a week. Obviously, heat mats
(electric "heating pads" for use under seedling trays) are a much-wanted tool here.
Okra is another of those plants that really, really doesn't want its root system joggled about, so it's probably best to start seed in a peat pot or, as with melons, in peat pellets. Start seed about 4 to 5 weeks before the expected transplant date. For best germination, soak the seeds
overnight, then plant only the swollen ones.
The Bed
Okra is shallow-rooted and will not tolerate wet or poorly drained soils, preferring light-textured, free-draining soils, though it can be grown on almost any soil with good drainage.
All sources agree that okra needs particularly high potash content in the soil--so adding some is almost a necessity--but doesn't want high nitrogen content (or you will get too much
vegetative growth and the expense of the wanted pods). The optimum pH range for okra is 6.2 to 6.5. Rather obviously, the bed requires a full-sun location.
Okra should not immediately precede or follow vine crops--such as squash or sweet potatoes--owing to the risk of nematode buildup in the soil.
Transplanting Out
Ideal plant spacing in a deep-dug or raised bed is probably 12 inches (that's what Jeavons recommends, and one seedsman says the same, though with greater spacing between parallel rows, a planting layout that deep-bed gardeners do not use). These
fellows can in theory get pretty big (in the deep south, some cultivars can reach ten feet tall or even over), but the early varieties, especially in cooler weather, typically reach only
30 to 36 inches high. (One source says that the Penta Green cultivar typically reaches 18 to 30 inches in height).
Obviously, all the standard northern-gardener's tools for augmenting warmth--plastic mulches, row covers, cloches--are wise choices when dealing with okra.
Growing
Okra is tolerant of water stress (irregular watering), but for best results, it wants adequate soil moisture throughout its growing period--but avoid heavy early irrigation, because
that can cool the soil too much for the young plants. Drip irrigation probably works best.
Once flowering starts, pods form very quickly, typically in 7 to 10 days. Once pods appear, watch it closely and pick daily as pods become ready--frequent picking encourages
further pod formation.
Pods should be picked while they're still tender, before the seeds are half grown; as a rule, that's about 5 or 6 days after the pod had first flowered. Pods with tips that will bend
between the fingers without breaking have become too tough, but if you missed them before pick them anyway, to keep those new pods coming. One source says of the Penta Green cultivar that
it grows pods "up to 15cm [c. 6 inches] long, though for best quality they should be harvested when about half that size"; so pick pods at a length of about 3 inches.
Caution! Okra plants, and pods, often have numerous small spines; those can irritate anyone's skin, and moreover some people are outright allergic to them. Always
pick okra wearing a long-sleeved shirt and gloves. (That's probably wise even with so-called "spineless" okra types.) A light washing will remove the spiny hairs, and okra can be
eaten fresh (though it is usually cooked).
Fresh okra bruises very easily, the bruises blackening within a few hours. Though the defect is mostly cosmetic, take care in handling the pods during harvest.
More
Relevant Links
Besides any links presented above on this page, the following ought to be especially helpful.
Odds and Ends
Biology
Okra is a member of the Malvaceae, the mallow family, and is related to hibiscus and quite closely to cotton. (It is still sometimes listed, wrongly, as Hibiscus
esculentus.)
History
As we often say under this heading, there's no point in re-inventing the wheel: here's a fine history of okra.
Envoi
"Gumbo" is the old African name for okra, today transferred in the English-speaking world to the name of the famous New Orleans cajun-style soup. Okra is also featured in the cuisine
of India, where it is called bhindi.
Irmo, South Carolina, hosts an annual Okra Strut.
There is a "Song to Okra", whose complete words are available on line; it is unlikely that you will hear
it on MTV any time soon.
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